Injuries are an unavoidable part of being an athlete. While different activities naturally lend themselves to injuries associated with overusing particular parts of the body or overeating joints, mobility and strengthening are critical to minimising injuries across almost all sports. As a climber and physical therapist, Chris Tang has a very personal understanding of this. The former rugby player turned to climbing at the urging of friends. "Out of courtesy, I tried and was not good at it, yet the vibe and community of people there were what kept me climbing for 12 years now."
He says boosting his mobility, joint health, and flexibility benefited him as an avid climber. He understands the importance of rehabilitation, yet he firmly believes in taking steps to strengthen and prevent injuries.
The Lululemon ambassador shares the unique physical challenges of climbing, the dynamic training involved from the perspective of a physio, and how he copes with injuries.
What sort of training do climbers focus on? Can you describe what a typical day of training looks like?
Climbing is a very unconventional activity, hobby and sport as it involves your whole body being mobile, very strong and stable. So not one type of training will be significantly better for you, it may be a combination of yoga, strength training and fingerboarding for some, whilst others must work on their biomechanics proprioception, balance and core work.
I have weak fingers, so I train on my finger strength more as I have relatively good upper and lower body mobility. I will work on the different grips in isometrics, eccentrics and contact strength, from a four-finger open hand to a mono-isometric hold to build tendon and ligament strength. The key here is to work towards your goal at your own pace and tailor the training combination that works best for you.
How much training goes in before you attempt a climb for the first time?
Each session for me is training unless it is a project I am working on. I fine-tune body positioning, footwork, balance, and overall ease of the moves. So even though I am climbing, I am still training, indoor or outdoors; it's a constant learning curve for climbers to keep seeking that perfect moment where the mind and the body move in harmony.
If I am working towards a project, I spend four to five days (per week) training with a mix of fingerboarding for two to three days, 90 minutes each session, then some antagonistic exercises and some shoulder stability work— two to three days of mobility, end range control, and some pulling training. Generally, working towards a project would take a serious amount of dedication towards training and the longest I trained consistently on route was 13 months.
You do indoor and outdoor climbing; what are the main differences in physical demand? Which do you enjoy more? Would you say one is more difficult than the other?
The main difference in physical challenges between indoor and outdoor with the current trend in climbing would be the style of setting. Most indoor problems have an element of dynamic movement, whether a sideway jump or a parkour-type move from running on some holds to a big jump double catching a hold. In the outdoors, you would rarely find moves like that unless you intentionally create that.
I love the outdoors more as I am an outdoor person and also rock climbing is the art of climbing on rocks and not plastic, so I prefer the outdoors with my group of friends.
Outdoor and indoor have different challenges, so it's hard to say which one is trickier; with outdoor, there's no colour marking on footholds or handholds, so it requires a good understanding of your body and its limits in range, strength and positioning. Whilst indoor, these are colour-coded and generally have much bigger footholds than outdoor, but moves can be harder to read and decipher based on the setter and the style being set.
What are some of the most memorable climbs you've had? What made them so special?
It will have to be Rocketman (the boulder problem's name) in Balkan Hills, Sydney. The first time I went climbing outdoors in my first year of climbing, I saw these strong guys trying this route, and the moves were so big and cool that I told myself that I wanted to try it when I became stronger – and I did about eight years later.
What are some of the most common injuries you experience as a climber?
For me, it's definitely my fingers– maybe most will agree. The fingers aren't designed to be loaded with your body weight on your fingertips. Also how you hold on will also affect your joint health, so learning to take care of your fingers earlier in your climbing life will serve you well.
What are your top tips for avoiding and minimising the risk of injury?
Learn how to mobilise your joints, and strengthen them. Work with your physios and your coach. There is a lot of information out there, so it can get confusing for many starting off. Everyone seems to have their concept of injury prevention, but only a few will have read medical journals or understand strength and conditioning information. Seek professional help when in doubt. Always remember to listen to your body – it is alright to slow down and take some rest every now and then to reset both physically and mentally.
How does your climbing apparel affect your performance?
I prefer and only wear Lululemon pants when I go climbing; for example, the ABC Classic-Fit Pant or Commission Pant are perfect for climbing in with durable fabric to be abrasion resistant whilst being breathable. They provide me with a high degree of mobility in the hip, groin and knees. I usually pair it with The Fundamental Tee or 5 Year Basic Tee, and it will instantly look presentable!
Also see: Here's why you shouldn’t use your yoga mat for dynamic workouts